How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic
How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic: Your Step-by-Step Guide to Reclaiming Your Home
Hey there! If you're reading this, chances are you've heard the unwelcome scuffling, scratching, or thumping sounds coming from above your ceiling. Dealing with a raccoon squatting in your attic is stressful, messy, and frankly, a health hazard. But don't worry, you are not alone. Getting rid of raccoons safely and permanently is completely achievable if you follow the right steps.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through exactly How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic using humane, effective methods, and most importantly, how to prevent them from ever coming back.
It's essential to approach this task with caution and patience. Raccoons are wild animals, and they can be aggressive, especially if they are a mother protecting her young kits. Let's get started on evicting your furry, masked trespasser!
Step 1: Confirming and Assessing the Raccoon Problem
Before you implement any removal strategy, you must be absolutely certain that the culprit is indeed a raccoon, and crucially, you need to know if babies are present. Timing is everything; trapping and relocating a mother raccoon during spring (maternity season) is inhumane and can leave babies starving inside your attic.
Identifying the Signs of Raccoon Entry
Raccoons are powerful and can cause significant damage while gaining entry. They don't need much space—just a small weak spot—but they will often tear open shingles, fascia boards, or vents to enlarge their access point.
Here are the common clues that you have a raccoon resident:
- Nocturnal Noise: Raccoons are active at night. You'll hear heavy walking, deep thumping, and maybe some chattering or growling sounds after sunset.
- Strong Odor: Raccoon droppings (latrines) and urine have a very potent, musky smell. They tend to use one specific area as a restroom, which concentrates the smell.
- Visible Damage: Look for torn shingles, bent vents, or large holes chewed around eaves, especially where the roofline meets the gutter.
- Baby Sounds: If you hear high-pitched chirping or squealing noises, especially during late spring, this is a telltale sign that kits are nesting. If kits are present, professional help is highly recommended.
Safety First: Gear Up!
Raccoons carry parasites (like roundworm) and diseases (like rabies). Never approach a raccoon directly. If you must enter the attic space, wear protective gear.
- Thick work gloves (leather is best).
- A heavy-duty face mask or respirator (N95 or better) to protect against dust and parasites in the droppings.
- Safety goggles or protective eyewear.
- Long sleeves and pants taped to your boots to prevent parasites from accessing your skin.
Step 2: Eviction Time! Safe and Humane Removal Methods
The goal isn't to kill or injure the raccoon; the goal is to convince it that your attic is the worst place in the world to raise a family. Raccoons want peace and quiet. We are going to take that away.
The Raccoon Eviction Process (R.E.P.)
This process relies on deterrents that exploit the raccoon's aversion to loud noises, bright lights, and strong smells. Remember to start this process during the day when the raccoon is usually asleep.
1. **Light it Up:** Place powerful work lights or floodlights directly near the nesting area. Continuous bright light is incredibly disruptive to a nocturnal animal.
2. **Make Some Noise:** Tune a radio to a talk station and turn the volume up reasonably loud right next to where the raccoon is sleeping. Human voices are highly unsettling to them.
3. **Smell Them Out:** Raccoons have a keen sense of smell. Place bowls of ammonia, strong peppermint oil, or rags soaked in apple cider vinegar near the entry point and the nesting spot. The strong fumes will encourage them to seek a quieter, less pungent location.
Keep these deterrents running continuously for three to five nights. The disturbance should encourage the adult raccoon to move its family elsewhere.
Using Repellents and Exclusion Techniques
Once you are certain the raccoon (and any kits) has left—which you can confirm by sprinkling flour outside the entry hole and checking for prints the next morning—it's time for the exclusion device.
The safest and most effective exclusion method is installing a one-way door. This specialized device mounts over the main entry point, allowing the raccoon to push its way out but preventing it from pushing its way back in. This is the crucial step in How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic permanently.
Wait three to five nights after installing the door to ensure the animal has definitely left. If you hear scratching or distress sounds after installation, the raccoon may be stuck or there might be babies left inside—immediately contact a professional wildlife removal service in this scenario.
Step 3: Sealing Up Entry Points and Raccoon Proofing
Removing the raccoon is only half the battle. If you don't seal up the hole, another animal will quickly move in. Raccoons are incredibly persistent; they will often try to rip open the repair if they know their home is still inside.
Wait until you are 100% positive the attic is empty before permanently sealing the original entry hole. You must use materials that the raccoon cannot chew or tear through.
Repairing the Damage and Cleaning Up
Use hardware cloth (heavy-duty wire mesh, typically 16-gauge or thicker) or metal flashing to cover the entry hole. Do not use plastic mesh, foam, or thin wood, as raccoons can easily tear through these.
The cleanup process is critical due to health risks. Raccoon feces can contain Raccoon Roundworm (Baylisascaris procyonis), which is dangerous to humans. Wear your mask and gloves!
You should:
- Remove all insulation that has been soiled by urine and feces.
- Scoop up all droppings and place them in sealed plastic bags.
- Treat the entire contaminated area with an enzymatic cleaner or a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) to disinfect and remove lingering odors that could attract other animals.
Long-Term Prevention Strategies
To ensure you never have to ask "How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic" again, prevention is the key. Raccoons are usually attracted by accessible food and easy shelter.
Here are crucial steps for raccoon proofing your property:
- Secure all garbage cans with locking lids or bungee cords.
- Do not leave pet food or water outside overnight.
- Trim tree branches that hang over or close to your roof, as these serve as "raccoon bridges."
- Install chimney caps (metal screens are a must!).
- Inspect all vents (especially roof and plumbing vents) and cover them securely with heavy-gauge hardware cloth.
- Check your foundation and porch for any access points and seal them with cement or heavy mesh.
By implementing these long-term prevention methods, you significantly reduce the risk of future infestations and protect your home.
Conclusion
Dealing with a raccoon in your attic is certainly a difficult task, but by following a step-by-step approach, you can successfully and humanely evict them and safeguard your home. Remember to prioritize safety, especially when dealing with potential diseases and during maternity season.
From initial assessment using deterrents like light and sound, to installing a one-way exclusion door, and finally, robustly sealing all entry points, you now have the knowledge How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic for good. If the situation involves extensive damage, difficult access, or confirmed kits, never hesitate to call a certified wildlife removal specialist.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- What time of year do raccoons have babies?
- Raccoon breeding season typically peaks in late winter, meaning kits are usually born between March and May. This is the most critical time to avoid trapping, as babies may be left behind.
- Is it safe to use mothballs to get rid of raccoons?
- No. Mothballs (naphthalene) are toxic and their effectiveness as a wildlife repellent is inconsistent. They also pose a serious health risk to pets, children, and humans if the fumes are inhaled for long periods in a confined space like an attic. Stick to non-toxic deterrents like lights and sound.
- How long does it take for a raccoon to leave the attic after using deterrents?
- Usually, a raccoon will relocate its den within 3 to 7 nights of continuous disturbance (loud noise, bright lights, strong smells). If they are raising babies, they may be more reluctant to move, necessitating patience or professional help.
- Can a raccoon cause structural damage to my house?
- Absolutely. Raccoons are incredibly strong. They can tear open roofing, insulation, wood fascia, and chew through electrical wiring, which poses a serious fire risk. Their droppings and urine also cause significant damage to drywall and insulation over time.
- When should I call a professional wildlife remover?
- You should call a professional if you confirm there are babies present, if the entry point is difficult or unsafe to reach, or if the animal appears sick, aggressive, or is present during the day (which can be a sign of rabies).
How To Get Rid Raccoon In The Attic
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